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'I Drowned': Big Wave Surfer Greg Long on Death and Finding the Will to Come Back

Greg Long is an elite big wave surfer who nearly died doing what he loves. In this video, he reflects on that experience and getting back in the ocean that nearly killed him.

VICE Sports

Greg Long is one of the best big wave surfers in the world, but two years ago, he suffered a "non-fatal drowning" while surfing the infamous Cortes Bank. The archival footage of Long's rescue team bringing him back to life is harrowing enough on its own, but beating death wasn't Long's last battle. With two years of recovery and personal struggles behind him, Long reflects on his near-death experience and getting back in the ocean to mount an inspiring comeback.